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	Other Parts

	Fore-end Price: £50 each	Made from new 1955 manufactured spares. Converted by professionals in the wood trade. Left smooth but unfinished. Items require the remaining original stain removing and then re-staining to customers taste. Fore-ends come fitted with reinforcing piece in the rear face and the threaded nut for the vertical nose cap screw. The conversion required filling in the Mark III sight protector reliefs and the hole on the underside for the protector screw. The infills can be seen but with staining and oil/polish they will blend in over time.

	Top hand guards, front & rear Price: £65 pair	New made to original drawings. Rear clip and front protector metal parts fitted. Smooth but unfinished. Ready for staining.

	Rear sight Price: £165 complete	Made on NC machines to the original drawings, including the graduations. Hardened on the bearing faces. Pivot pins , ball, spring and cotters supplied. All blacked and ready to go. Indistinguishable from the original, except they look new. It is up to the customer to apply aging marks! These sights do not have maker's markings, we do not want them passed off as originals. NOTE: the original back sight was far from perfect in its design and these new manufactured sights exhibit all the foibles of the original. However being new-made, the slider does not leap up and down the ladder like a worn out original, so that's a bonus.

	Front band Price: £60 Band and two screws	Made on NC machines to the original drawing. Blacked. Supplied with two screws (one used for fitting, the other for final assembly), both left over-long to accommodate fitting. As the item does not interface with anything else, the thread used is a modern 2BA, instead of the "Enfield Standard" original. This make obtaining spares an easier proposition. Producing the original Enfield thread was uneconomic and unnecessary. Second batch now in production. See hints on fitting below.

	An order for all four items - discounted price - £300 + P&P

	Other items required Sprung stud to apply upward pressure on the barrel. Fitted to the front fore-end. Inner band screw, springs and washer. (Inner band itself is a permanent fixture on the barrel). A normal SMLE nose cap, preferably an Enfield made one. Nose cap screws. An SMLE "lower" swivel band, swivel screw and sling swivel. Piling swivel. Fitting the front band The original front bands were made to fit pre 1920s woodwork and these new-made ones were made to the same drawing. The later replacement wood items are "fuller" in profile and the bands need fitting to the rifle by letting them into the fore-end and front hand guard. We recommend this is done BEFORE staining and finishing the fore-end and hand guard. (See below). Technical experience and superior hand-working skills are required. This can be a nightmare if not done carefully and will result in damage to the band and the screw thread. Do not rush this job, allow plenty of time. If the nose cap has a thread for a piling swivel screw, this must be drilled out using a 3/16-in clearance drill. It is advantageous if the clearance hole is larger, say .190-in. Fit the nose cap to the rifle fore-end by adjusting the wood profile. Make sure the nose cap screws fit. Remove nose cap and fit the top hand guard. Carefully slide the band down the rifle from the muzzle by gently springing open the band. Do not over stretch the band it will make fitting more difficult. Fit the nose cap. Fit nose cap screws. Pull the band forward over the nose cap. The excess wood can then be gauged. Scribe around the band to mark its position on the top hand guard and fore-end. Remove excess wood and refit the band. Several iterations will be required. The screw hole in the band and nose-cap piling swivel lug must be ALMOST in-line, before attempting the fit the screw. FORCING AND OVER TIGHTENING WILL DISTORT ITEMS AND BEND SCREWS. So long as the band fits snug and the screw is tight, it is good enough. Finish and stain wood to requirements. Fit piling swivel, if available. Cut screw to length, smooth and round off, then blacken the cut end. Do not cut short. Leave at least a diameter proud. It will be difficult, if not impossible, to remove and refit the band if the screw is cut too short. Extra Tips* Having removed some wood, keep the rifle in its normal upright working position and GENTLY tap down on the front band to ensure it is bedding down in the cut you have made for it. Use plastic or soft wood as a pad on the band. If you must use "G" cramps to apply a bit of side pressure to the band, again use soft packing. DON'T try and use Mole Grips on the band screw lugs to bring them together, they will permanently FUBAR** the band and force the lugs out of alignment. This advice is offered with the benefit of experience! * Suggested technique: Using a fine dovetail saw cut the wood inside the scribed lines. Then remove some wood with a very sharp chisel. Use the side of a rectangular file to ensure the surfaces are smooth and square. ** Translation = "distort, mangle or generally render useless".

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